Back in ‘Nam
I haven’t yet missed a sunrise coming into port. Vietnam was no exception, and my previous post tells about the river and the cargo ships we passed. Upon arrival to Vietnam, we were allowed to disembark earlier than usual. My field trip didn’t start until 1:30 pm, so I got off the ship with Geraldine to explore Ho Chi Mihn City. We had shuttles to take us to the city center, and when we got there, Ger and I were so turned around we couldn’t find any place on our map! We wandered for a bit and then found a coffee shop with internet for Ger to call her mom. I was determined to find a backpacker’s pack, so I grabbed a man with a trishaw and asked him to take me to a market that we were told about. It wasn’t there. The sight of me on a trishaw, alone and moderately lost, in Vietnamese traffic, was pretty darn funny. I found a mall, which is almost like an American Embassy. Walking into a mall feels like a safe place away from pushy taxi drivers and shop owners, away from the heat and humidity of foreign countries, and away from the infamous Asian traffic of HCMC. The feeling of walking into that mall surprised me, but it felt fantastic to be in such a familiar place. I found very quickly, though, that not one person spoke a word of English and could not help me find my way. I also didn’t see the pizza hut, but apparently, it was there. So close.
I left the safe haven of makeup counters and clothes racks and returned back to the sweltering heat of the city. I wandered around a bit more, convinced that the market is near. It wasn’t. I found a group of SAS kids and an English-speaking tour guide who told me where I should go for cheap goods. I tried to hail a cab, but a scooter guy stopped instead. It was scary at first to hop onto an electric scooter with a guy who I didn’t know, but he brought me to the square I wanted to go to! Safe and sound, I headed to the ATM to take out money to buy knock-off items from the market. I know the exchange rate of USD to dong is about $1 to 20,000 Dong. How am I supposed to do that math?!?! I just punched a number on the ATM and got some “monopoly money”, that’s what I call it (I think I’ve explained that concept before…). So I entered the market with my wad of seemingly useless cash. I had millions of dollars in dongs. I eventually figured out how to use them (after being ripped off multiple times). Although, after traveling for so long, it’s much harder to rip me off than it was at the start. I’m so good at haggling at this point, it’s so fun!!! The market was very local and sold mostly clothes and had exclusively Vietnamese people shopping, except for me. I ironically found a shirt from India that I was sad I didn’t get in India, which is funny. I also bought a knockoff watch that I loved and then got stolen in Ha Long Bay. What a pain. My goal was to find bags and was told a place to find them… a few miles away. So I began walking again.
This time, I walked the entire way without getting majorly lost. The hardest part of the directions was the street names and street signs. The names were obviously all in Vietnamese, but were so similar, it was hard to tell which street was which. The signs are also confusing to follow. So I took a long route, but found a street of window shopping that was fun to see. I passed our shuttle stop and headed to the market. The street finally appeared and I found the bag shop that I was so desperately looking for. My success continued and I found what I needed plus some. The market was also interesting, and I found some time to look around. Then, I was late and got ripped off by a taxi guy to get back to the ship.
In a rush, I finally made it to the bus for my FDP. For my Women’s Reproductive Health class, we took a trip to a house for girls who had been sexually abused either by family or through sex trafficking. I was very excited about the trip, but half of it had been cancelled. We visited the shelter, but the contacts didn’t speak much English. The language barrier was very frustrating in Vietnam, more than any other country I’ve visited. I’m expecting China to be even more difficult to communicate. So, the shelter was very interesting to see and learn about, but I didn’t get as much out of the experience that I was hoping for. The mistreatment of young girls is very frustrating to me, and I hope to learn more about it eventually.
Dinner plans were not until later, so I had a while to explore HCMC a bit more. I decided to dip into a salon and get a mani-pedi for so cheap!!!!!! It was awesome. The spa was on the main road, but went through a strange hallway and up three flights of stairs to get to the spa. It was a bit nervous looking, but then other SAS kids were inside, so it was fine. I then rushed back to the ship, as usual, but everyone else was running late again and we headed out to dinner. Where did we end up?!? PHATTY’S SPORTS BAR!! Owned by a real live American from New York. They had sports on and American music and an atmosphere that I haven’t seen since Miami. Charlie (the owner) was so happy to see us and brought us a jug of margarita, what a great guy! And then I got fried shrimp with a sweet and sour chili sauce. It was bomb. So darn good. We hung out there for a long while and then Charlie’s brother walked us to the center of nightlife where some funny evening time stories occurred. I really just love the friends I’ve made. Again, as usual, we got back to the ship safe and sound and slept so hard until internet time in the morning.
Getting internet is the most stressful thing on this voyage. Every time I end up getting wifi, I freak out and don’t know what I should do to be productive!! I always call my mommy first off, which takes an hour or so (gotta catch up on a week or two of phone calls!!). And then I check facebook and gmail, but then what?!?! I usually forget to check my bank account and UM stuff, I never remember to call anyone else but mommy, and it is annoying. Plus the internet cuts out on the reg even in cafes. I remembered this time to upload facebook photos and look at classes, but not do research for China! What am I to do in China?!? Going backpacking, J . Anyways, I wasted my time on the internet as usual and I don’t know what I’ll do when I have real internet again. Real life really freaks me out, I’m not ready to return!!!!!!
So after fail internet time, I rushed back to the ship, shoved some clothes into a backpack, and ran out to the bus with no lunch, again. This field trip was a service visit to a deaf school and a handicap children’s home. At first, we stopped at the school and learned a little bit about their funding, programming, and students. We then got to play and learn with the children for a long time, it was awesome!!! We got to teach them some ASL and learn some Vietnamese sign language. One of the other people on the trip with me had a translator card which had tons of pictures on it. We would point to the pictures and then see what the sign was. We would then be able to talk to them! We also got to color and write on paper. The children all had hearing aids, but still couldn’t hear effectively. It’s funny to me that this interaction was somewhat easier than an interaction with a language barrier. The students were willing to interact and talk to us even if verbal communication was impossible. The body language, facial expressions, and hand motions made it possible to interact completely! It was amazing to see. We also taught them the hokey pokey and the Macarena. The kids were great, it just reminded me that I’ll eventually be fluent in ASL. I will!!!
The bus then took us to the other side of the city to a home for disabled children. There were over 350 children living in this home, and they all have varying disabilities. I found out later that some or most of the disabilities probably stem from the Agent Orange used in the war. My biggest regret from Vietnam is not visiting the Chu Chi tunnels or the war museum. I learned a bit about it, but didn’t have time to stop by the museums to learn firsthand about it. But the children have been affected with birth defects from the chemicals. I was not prepared for the disabled children at all. When we entered the first room, I felt very uncomfortable and out of place. The room housed about 20 teenagers in metal crib/beds lined up on the walls. The teenagers in the room were all nonverbal and immobile. They were being handfed and having their diapers changed. The 20 of us on the FDP didn’t know how to handle the situation. We slowly walked around the room and tried to find words to say or think of things to do to make the children or ourselves feel better. After a couple of minutes that felt like eternity, we moved onto a room of dozens of 3-7 year old children with similar disabilities. They were all in a non-air conditioned room in the metal cribs lined up throughout the room. We again had the same reaction, but soon one of the other group members rubbed the arm of a child, and his face lit up. That one person broke the barrier to the children, and we all began touching the arms and feet of the children and talking to them. It was an amazing and terribly awful experience. The children do not have any type of regular interaction; they don’t have caretakers who spend time with them. There was one child who blew kisses at me for probably 10 minutes. And another sweet girl who looked like she couldn’t understand anything or communicate in any way really caught my attention. I talked to her for a few minutes and then decided to tickle her just a little and she laughed so very hard, it was amazing. We played tickle games for almost an hour, and it made me feel like I really made a difference in this one child’s life for even just a short time. I really loved both experiences with the children.
I left directly from the FDP to head to the airport for my flight to Hanoi. The cab drivers, of course, don’t speak English, so it was a bit curious trying to find the airport alone. But I did find it and found out that our flight was an hour later than I thought. So we had lots of time to eat airport food and play cards in the terminal. Vietnamese people like to cut. They don’t understand lines or waiting or personal space. Ugh. I got cut like 3 times in the airport lines!!! So in the terminal, I had my first bowl of pho and some spring rolls. Delicious. So we got on the plane and then off the plane and then got in a taxi then went to Hanoi backpacking hostel!
The hostel that the taxi dropped us off at was the “old hostel”. Apparently, there was a newer one. So we hung out in the old backpackers district for a while, got some pizza, talked to some other backpackers, and then trekked across town by foot to the new hostel. The streets were buzzin even way late. The walk was really cool and we got to see a ton of Vietnamese people hanging out playing cards and making food on the sidewalks. I was in charge of the map- whose idea was that?!?! But I got us there just fine after we ran into a few other SAS groups out and about. The hostel was finally in sight, and it was a beautiful thing!! The doors were open and Western people were hanging out inside and around the lobby. The hostel provided 8 computers with internet, a travel desk, a bar/café, and lots of fun activities! I was put in a room by myself, go figure, but it was fine. I slept on the top bunk and a dude from South Carolina slept on the bottom bunk. He is one of the only other Americans I’ve met traveling. It’s appalling how few Americans travel the world. There were two guys across from me who have been traveling for 3 years now and are going back to Australia to work again this year. One has “I Bangkok” tattooed on his butt. Funny. There was also a girl in the room who was my age and traveling with her friend. Steph and Kate are traveling for 3 months out of a backpack!! I asked tons of questions about where she put her things and what she brought with her. It’s gotta be so tough!! They were all really cool. We chatted about everyone’s travels for a while and then I peed in the Hecht-like communal bathroom, locked up my things, and climbed into the bunk for the night. I fell asleep so fast even with the lights on and plenty of people still up and talking.
Silly me didn’t bring an alarm clock, so I was awake every hour making sure I didn’t miss the trip. Three of the girls with me weren’t signed up for the trip, but eventually got a spot and all ended up fine. I got up early to call Mom, which is always a welcomed call. I love how often I get to call home! I know it probably doesn’t feel like as much to them, but it’s great for me. Sucks coming from a daily call to a bi-weekly call, but I’ll take what I can get. So we ate breakfast and got on the busses to go to Ha Long Bay.
The mini-busses were packed full (mostly with SAS kids), but the best guys in the bus were the 5 guys in the back. There were 3 Brits and 2 Australians. All of them had their toes painted because they lost a bet. One guy was called “Captain Fun” but he was the least amount of fun out of everyone!!! The bus was entertaining and we all got to introduce ourselves and everyone had funny things to say about themselves. We told everyone about Juicy J and Becky told everyone about her theory that jellyfish are taking over the world. And that she wants to die by shark attack. We had an awesome tour guide Chris on our bus and another named Bianca on the other (who we affectionately called B).
The Junkboat that we stayed on was not what I was expecting. I was expecting a JUNK-boat, but we got a cool, wooden mini-cruise boat. There were bedrooms with comfy beds and nice bathrooms, a dining room, kitchen, outdoor patios, and a rooftop hangout place. After we arrived at the bay (and Ger and I slept), we immediately jumped off the roof of the 3-story boat into the water. It was a big jump!!! We all hung out in the sun and talked to the other backpackers on the boat with us. The boat fed us SO WELL!!! We ate every few hours and were given 6-8 dishes at each meal. I loved all of the Vietnamese food that I got. Everyone from our boat got into kayaks and kayaked to a really neat cave. The trip over to the cave on the kayaks was amazingly beautiful. The entire area was so so pretty, and we got to enjoy the views a lot more the next morning. Once we arrived at the cave, one of our tour guides told us about how the bay was created: dragons. Apparently, the dragons protected the Vietnamese from the Chinese by shooting limestone into the water? I don’t really know, but the dragons did it. And then one of the dragons stayed and lives as a rock that can be seen from the cave. The cave was really neat and I climbed up into a smaller cave with a guy from England. The cave got really small and it was awesome seeing the structures inside. I would be very interested to rock climb sometime soon!!
Once we returned to the boat, we ate again and played music and danced around. We spent the night hanging out and playing games, it was so much fun!!! I really love the girls I was with and meeting people from so many different places. I also really enjoyed jumping in the water at nighttime (and getting in trouble from the Vietnamese boat drivers).
The Vietnamese drivers woke us up bright and freakin early to change the rooms over for the next group of people, but we did have breakfast waiting for us. The food was so good!! We all sat on the top deck and watched the beautiful scenery all morning as we returned to the dock. We spent the night and next day in Hanoi, which I love! Vietnam is a really beautiful country and the people are wonderful. I really enjoyed the backpacking district. We ate food with a French girl, Lilly, and then sat with Marcy at the hostel and hung out. I really loved having the internet so readily available and being able to talk to my Mommy!!! It was also amazing to have a bed for $4.50-$6 per night, crazy!!
In Hanoi the next day, we went to the market for a bit and walked around the city. We saw a dog poop in the middle of the street. We also ate tons of street food, which is the best!! The food is less than $1 per meal, amazing pho. The group of us also got massages, which was really just a light beating from Vietnamese women. We were all in the same room, naked, and laughing periodically as we were slapped and punched and abused for an entire hour. And then we paid $10 for it, ha. After, I got a chance to figure out my classes for the Fall, which was really helpful. And then we ate again, as usual. Fran, Ger, and I eat every two hours… literally. We are food tanks! I’ve been getting made fun of relentlessly for the amount of things I’ve eaten. One night, Ger and I ordered a burger, pizza, spring rolls, and a crepe for dinner. I then ate everyone’s fries because of my new obsession with ketchup. So we are fat to say the least… And then Becky and I got our noses pierced. I’ve always wanted it and I’m really excited about it!!! I think it looks really good and makes me look more feminine with the short hairs. Which are growing. I can now see them (without a mirror) after I shower! I also got hair product to make it look less like a hedgehog on the reg. I’m hoping it’ll be cute and pixie by time I get home!!!!
It was a very sad thing to leave the Backpacker’s hostel and B, but we headed to the airport and flew ourselves back to HCMC. It is always so nice to get back to the ship. We literally kiss the ground when we get to the gangway and pass security. I have a very love-hate relationship with the ship. Right now, it’s small and confining and rocky and has nasty food, but other times it’s the only place we want to be!!!
In the morning, I had an FDP that I THOUGHT left at 1pm (which the SAS website says it leaves at 1pm) but it actually left at 7:30am. I was so upset to miss it! It was so frustrating and set a frustrating vibe on the day. I ended up going to a coffee shop to talk to Mom (where the internet was annoyingly spotty) and then bought DVDs and walked around for a while. We ate at a cool 24pho place, which I liked a lot. We ended up walking around looking for headphones for Carly for a really long time and then decided to eat sushi and call it a night. Boring last day, but all in all, Vietnam was AMAZING!!! I really loved Ha Long Bay and Hanoi’s Backpacker District. I loved the Vietnamese people and the people traveling!! I really can’t wait to go back when I go to visit Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and India again!!
I wish I had time to finish these blogs in between countries because I feel like I’ve already forgotten fun and cool details from Vietnam, but the time between the ports is like 2 days. So I’ve already gotten back from China and now am on my way to Japan. I need to write my China blog and tons of assignments. I didn’t get a chance to send postcards, which sucks. I also didn’t get a chance to journal. I don’t want this experience to end… just slow down!!! Oh well, I’ll live it up as it comes. I love Vietnam!!